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Diamond Cuts

Learn everything you need to know about diamond cuts, from how they sparkle to how they’re graded.
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Cut

The craftsmanship behind a diamond’s cut profoundly impacts its quality, characterized by its symmetry and proportions. Achieving a superior cut demands the expertise of a highly skilled and experienced artisan.

Diamonds are meticulously classified and evaluated on a scale ranging from ‘Ideal’ to ‘Poor.’ Even an untrained observer can discern that diamonds with higher cut grades exhibit a more dazzling brilliance than those with lower cut grades.

Fair

Good quality cut which reflects some light while maximizing weight. While not as brilliant as a good cut, still a quality diamond.

Good

Premium quality cut to optimize the size without sacrificing quality or beauty. Reflects most light that enters.

Very Good

Superior quality cut that reflects nearly as much light as the ideal cut while at a substantially lower cost.

Ideal

Exquisite quality cut to create the optimal combination of brilliance and fire. Reflects nearly all light that enters the diamond.

Super Ideal

Cut to the most exacting standards. These diamonds have the most desirable dimensions and are proportioned to return the maximum possible light.

Ideal Cut

These diamonds epitomize perfection, boasting exceptional sparkle and flawless symmetry. They are meticulously cut to achieve perfect proportions for maximizing light dispersion.

Excellent Cut

Exhibiting remarkable sparkle and uniform patterns, excellent cut diamonds are known for their outstanding brilliance.

Very Good Cut

Diamonds in this category offer excellent sparkle and a high level of polish. They are appreciated for their symmetry and overall appeal.

Good Cut

While good-cut diamonds may not match the sparkle of higher grades, they still possess fine brilliance. They exhibit a reasonable level of polish and symmetry.

Fair Cut

Diamonds classified as ‘Fair Cut’ have a more subdued sparkle and polish. Their symmetry may not always be perfect, resulting in varying levels of appeal.

Poor Cut

At the lower end of the spectrum, poor-cut diamonds lack the radiance of their higher-grade counterparts. They appear dim and often exhibit asymmetry and irregularities on their surface.
The cut grade of a diamond plays a pivotal role in determining its overall brilliance and visual appeal, making it a critical factor for those seeking the most dazzling and captivating gems.

How is Diamond Cut Graded?

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has developed a cut grading system to evaluate the quality of round brilliant cut diamonds. The GIA Cut Grading System assesses cut quality based on three main factors:
It’s important not to confuse “carat” with “karat,” which is a measure of gold purity. While both terms are used in the jewelry industry, they refer to entirely different properties—weight for carats and purity for karats.
  • Appearance: Includes brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
  • Design: Proportions of the diamond.
  • Craftsmanship: Polish and symmetry.
The GIA cut scale ranges from Excellent to Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor. Different institutions may use varying terminology for these grades. For instance, the International Gemological Institute (IGI) uses the term “Ideal” for its highest cut quality, above “Excellent.” At Brilliant Earth, diamonds are categorized as Super Ideal, Ideal, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor based on their cut specifications and the certifying gemological laboratory’s standards.

Why is Diamond Cut Important?

The key significance of a diamond’s cut cannot be overstated. The cut stands out as one of the most vital aspects to consider when it comes to selecting a diamond. It’s imperative to clarify that the term “cut” in this context doesn’t refer to the diamond’s shape, but rather to the precise balance of symmetry, proportion, and polish achieved during the diamond-cutting process. The cut quality has a direct and profound impact on the overall beauty of the diamond.

The skillful art of diamond cutting is fundamental to the diamond’s ability to interact with light. Diamond cutter experts today possess an in-depth understanding of how light travels through these precious stones. They have honed their craft to establish specific proportions and angles that unlock the inner brilliance of a diamond.

Natural diamonds typically have a raw appearance resembling two square pyramids arranged in an eight-sided octahedral shape before they undergo the cutting process. A raw and point-cut state of diamond may possess some inherent beauty, but it doesn’t fully harness the potential of light within the stone.

Three critical factors come into play when assessing a diamond’s ability to unleash its true light effectively: the size of the table, the width, and the depth. The table depth and size, in relation to the diamond’s diameter, impact how light behaves within the diamond. The width ensures that light interacts at the ideal refraction angle.

A well-executed diamond cut is meticulously proportioned so that the majority of light that enters the gem exits back through the top of the stone. This intrinsic balance between diffusing white light (brilliance) and generating intense bursts of colorful fire (dispersion) builds a mesmerizing visual display.

Contrary, light leakage can happen when there is even a minute deviation from the optimal proportions in the diamond-cutting process. This denotes that instead of the light being redirected upward towards the table it escapes from the bottom of the diamond. Due to this, such a diamond exhibits diminished brilliance, poor light performance, and a dark center that obscures its natural radiance.

Diamond Cut Attributes: Understanding What Makes a Diamond Shine

When evaluating the brilliance, fire, and scintillation of a diamond, it’s essential to understand the key attributes that influence its visual appeal. Here’s a breakdown of the crucial elements that define the quality of a diamond’s cut: Appearance, Design and Craftsmanship.

Appearance: Includes brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

Brilliance

Brilliance refers to the amount of white light a diamond reflects. It is the sum of all reflections inside and outside the diamond, contributing to its overall brightness. A well-cut diamond maximizes this effect, creating a dazzling display of light.

Fire

Fire is the dispersion of white light into its component colors, creating flashes of spectral colors. It is the colorful flashes you see when a diamond is moved or exposed to direct light. A well-cut diamond will show vibrant flashes of color on the edges and surface.

Scintillation

Scintillation describes the sparkle and light pattern of a diamond. It’s the interplay of light and shadow as the diamond moves, creating dynamic flashes of light. Scintillation includes both the sparkle (the points of light that flash) and the pattern (the contrast between light and dark areas).

Design: Proportions of the diamond.

Table

The table is the largest, flat facet on the top of the diamond. It’s where the majority of light enters and exits the diamond. The size of the table in relation to the diameter affects the diamond’s brilliance. A properly proportioned table ensures optimal light reflection.

Girdle

The girdle is the outermost edge of the diamond where the crown (top) and pavilion (bottom) meet. It is used to measure the diamond’s diameter. The thickness of the girdle impacts the diamond’s durability and weight distribution.

Crown

The crown is the upper portion of the diamond, extending from the girdle to the table. The crown angle influences the diamond’s brilliance and fire. A well-proportioned crown contributes to a diamond’s overall light performance.

Pavilion

The pavilion is the lower portion of the diamond, extending from the girdle to the culet (or point). It’s crucial for reflecting light within the diamond. The depth and angles of the pavilion affect how light is refracted and returned to the viewer’s eye.

Culet

The culet is the small facet at the bottom of the pavilion where the facets meet. A culet may be pointed or flat. The presence and size of the culet can impact how light exits the diamond and affects its overall appearance.

Table Percentage

This measures the size of the table facet relative to the diamond’s diameter. An ideal table percentage balances light entry and reflection. Too large or too small can lead to diminished sparkle and light leakage.

Depth Percentage

This percentage indicates how deep the diamond is from the table to the culet. Proper depth enhances light performance. Too deep can cause light to be lost at the bottom, while too shallow can cause light leakage and reduce brilliance.

Girdle Thickness

Girdle thickness measures how thick or thin the diamond’s girdle is. A well-proportioned girdle ensures durability and optimal weight distribution. A very thin girdle may be prone to chipping, while a very thick girdle adds unnecessary weight.

Crown Angle

For round diamonds, the crown angle is the steepness or flatness of the crown. It affects the diamond’s fire and brilliance. A steep crown angle enhances fire but may reduce brightness, while a flatter angle can increase brightness but diminish fire.

Craftsmanship: Polish and symmetry.

Symmetry

Symmetry refers to the precision of the diamond’s facet alignment and overall outline. High symmetry ensures that all facets are perfectly aligned, contributing to consistent sparkle and light reflection. Variations can significantly affect the diamond’s appearance.

Polish

Polish assesses the smoothness of the diamond’s surface. A high-quality polish results in a mirror-like finish with minimal surface blemishes. Imperfections or rough areas can detract from the diamond’s overall brilliance and clarity.

Understanding these attributes helps in evaluating the quality of a diamond’s cut, ensuring that it delivers the maximum sparkle, brilliance, and visual appeal.

Diamond Cuts Grading System

Grading diamond’s cut quality centers around a meticulous evaluation based on seven key components, as established by the Gemology Institute of America (GIA) after 15 years of in-depth research into the interaction of light with round brilliant cut diamonds. These crucial components are brightness, dispersion, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish, and symmetry.

In the grading process, each of these factors is attributed to a grade level: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor. The first grade is determined by the highest rating among these categories. To illustrate, if a diamond’s lowest score happens to be “Fair” in the durability category, even if it excels as “Very Good” in all other sectors, the final grade would be classified as “Fair”. 

Nevertheless, it’s crucial to note that polish and symmetry deviate from this rule. A diamond with “Very Good” polish, has the potential of segregating in the “Super Ideal” category. Love Brilliance evaluates a diamond by adhering to the GIA grading scale but also takes into account specific diamond attributes like symmetry and polish to differentiate between Ideal vs Super Ideal cuts.

In instances where the cut grade is not provided by a grading laboratory, such as with fancy-shaped diamonds, Love Brilliance employs a comprehensive assessment that encompasses depth, table, secondary measurements, and subjective elements, in conjunction with the attributes mentioned above, to appraise the distinctions among various diamond cuts.

Diamond Cut Types

When it comes to diamond cuts, there are various styles that can dramatically influence a diamond’s appearance. Each type offers unique characteristics and visual effects. Here’s a guide to the different diamond cut types, including fancy cuts, modified brilliant cuts, step cuts, rose cuts, and vintage cuts.

Fancy Cuts

Fancy Cuts refer to any diamond shape that deviates from the traditional round form. These cuts are often chosen for their unique and distinctive appearances. Examples include:
  • Princess Cut: Known for its sharp, angular facets that create a brilliant sparkle.
  • Pear Cut: A teardrop-shaped cut that combines the best of round and marquise shapes.
  • Marquise Cut: An elongated, pointed shape that maximizes carat weight and creates a dramatic look.
  • Oval Cut: An elongated round shape that gives the appearance of greater size while maintaining brilliance.
  • Heart Cut: A romantic shape that features a distinct heart outline, often used in engagement rings.

Modified Brilliant Cuts

Modified Brilliant Cuts are variations of the traditional brilliant cut, adapted to different shapes while retaining the core principles of light reflection and sparkle. These include:
  • Cushion Cut: A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and large facets, combining brilliance with a vintage feel.
  • Oval Cut: Elongated form with brilliant-cut facets, offering a unique sparkle and greater perceived size.
  • Pear Cut: A combination of round and marquise shapes, featuring a tapering point that enhances its brilliance.
  • Heart Cut: A unique cut resembling a heart shape, modified to maximize light return and sparkle.

Step Cuts

Step Cuts feature long, rectangular facets that create a clean, linear look. These cuts are known for their sophisticated, geometric appearance and include:
  • Emerald Cut: Rectangular shape with step-cut facets, highlighting clarity and creating a sleek, elegant look.
  • Asscher Cut: A square version of the emerald cut with a similar step-cut design, offering vintage charm and clarity.
  • Baguette Cut: Small, rectangular facets typically used as accent stones or in channel settings, known for their linear and elegant appearance.

Rose Cuts

Rose Cuts are characterized by their flat bottoms and faceted tops that resemble a rosebud. This cut style is known for its subtle elegance and includes:
  • Round Rose Cut: The most common rose cut, featuring a flat base with a faceted dome that offers a gentle sparkle.
  • Fancy Rose Cuts: Any diamond shape can be cut in a rose style, but round is the most traditional and widely recognized.

Vintage Cuts

Vintage Cuts refer to diamond cuts that were popular before the advent of modern cutting technology. These cuts often feature larger facets and a classic, historical aesthetic:
  • Old Mine Cut: An antique cut with a deep pavilion and high crown, resulting in a distinct, vintage sparkle that reflects the diamond's historical craftsmanship.
  • European Cut: A precursor to the modern round brilliant cut, characterized by a larger table and fewer facets, creating a warm, vintage sparkle.

How Diamond Cutting Affects Pricing

The cut plays a pivotal role in determining the diamond’s value, exerting the greatest influence on its overall aesthetic appeal. Moreover, a superior cut typically commands a higher price point. Frequently, any imperfections in the 4 C’s can be compensated for by an excellent cut. Skillfully designed facets generate dazzling light effects that cleverly conceal any internal flaws, creating the illusion of a larger diamond.

How Diamond Cuts Affect Sparkle

A diamond’s brilliance, characterized by the captivating interplay between pure white light and the dispersed spectrum of colors within the diamond, lends it its uniqueness. It’s the enchanting quality that captures attention even from a distance, orchestrating a mesmerizing spectacle as the myriad facets within the diamond choreograph a captivating dance of light.

When crafting a diamond, meticulous consideration must be given to the intricate dynamics involving the table, the angles of the crown, the depth of the pavilion, and the overall depth. When these elements are thoughtfully calculated, featuring precise angles and well-proportioned dimensions, the bursts of reds, blues, oranges, greens, and yellows enrich the diamond’s radiant, white luminance.

FAQ for Our Diamond Cut Guide

Diamond shape and diamond cut are distinct elements of a diamond’s overall appearance. Diamond shape refers to the external form of the diamond, such as Round, Princess, or Emerald. This is the shape you see from above and is primarily a matter of personal preference. Diamond cut, however, pertains to the internal craftsmanship of the diamond, including the precision and arrangement of its facets. This affects how light interacts with the diamond, influencing its brilliance, fire, and scintillation. To select the perfect diamond, first choose the shape you love, then find a diamond with an exceptional cut to enhance its visual appeal.
The cut of a diamond is crucial to its sparkle. A diamond’s brilliance and sparkle come from how well its facets are cut to reflect and refract light. A well-cut diamond has precisely angled facets that maximize light entry and reflection, creating a dazzling display of brilliance. If the cut is not optimal, the diamond may appear dull or lackluster despite its color or clarity. Therefore, a high-quality cut is essential for achieving maximum sparkle and visual impact.
The importance of the 4 C’s—cut, color, carat, and clarity—depends on your personal preferences. While all are important, if you prioritize a diamond with exceptional sparkle and brilliance, the cut will be the most significant factor. The cut directly influences the diamond’s light performance and visual appeal. However, if other attributes like size (carat) or color are more important to you, then those aspects may take precedence. Ultimately, the best choice balances all four C’s according to your preferences and budget.
Choosing the right diamond cut involves understanding how different cuts impact the diamond’s appearance. Consider what aspects you value most—whether it’s a particular shape, maximum sparkle, or a balance of both. Look for diamonds with high cut grades, which indicate that the stone has been expertly cut to enhance its brilliance. Reviewing various cuts and their visual effects can help you find a diamond that meets your desires for both style and sparkle.

Popular diamond cuts include the Round Brilliant, Princess, Emerald, Asscher, and Oval. Each cut offers unique characteristics:

Round Brilliant: Renowned for its exceptional sparkle and fire, making it the most popular choice.

Princess: Known for its modern, geometric appearance and brilliant sparkle.

Emerald: Features a step-cut design that emphasizes clarity and elegance.

Asscher: Similar to the Emerald cut but with a square shape, providing a vintage, sophisticated look.

Oval: Combines the brilliance of the Round cut with an elongated shape, offering a unique and elegant appearance.

The cut of a diamond significantly influences its value. High-quality cuts enhance the diamond’s brilliance and overall visual appeal, often commanding a higher price. Diamonds with excellent or ideal cut grades are typically more valuable due to their superior light performance and aesthetic qualities. Investing in a diamond with a top-notch cut can greatly impact both its appearance and its cost.
Once a diamond is cut, its facets cannot be significantly altered without sacrificing some of the diamond’s material. While minor adjustments or re-polishing might be possible, substantial changes to the cut are not feasible. Therefore, selecting a diamond with an excellent cut at the time of purchase is crucial for achieving the desired brilliance and sparkle.
The ideal cut grade for a diamond generally falls within the Excellent or Ideal range. These grades signify that the diamond has been cut to optimal proportions and angles, ensuring maximum brilliance, fire, and scintillation. An ideal cut will allow the diamond to perform at its best, showcasing exceptional light performance and visual appeal.
The cut affects more than just a diamond’s sparkle. It also impacts how the diamond displays its color and clarity. A well-cut diamond can enhance its color by optimizing light interaction and can also help conceal minor inclusions or imperfections. Thus, the cut is integral to the overall appearance of the diamond, influencing both its beauty and perceived value.
Assessing the cut quality involves evaluating several factors, including proportions, symmetry, and polish. Review the diamond’s cut grade, which is provided by reputable gemological laboratories. Key attributes to consider include table percentage, depth percentage, crown angle, and girdle thickness. A high-quality cut will be well-balanced in these aspects, contributing to the diamond’s brilliance and overall visual impact.